Devold Triple North Walls 2008: Nepal – Kyashar 2.7.2009
Together with Jan Doudlebsky we have set out for three Asian mountaineering trips this year. Since the beginning of our three-stage DEVOLD Triple North Walls expedition there was a common goal to attempt first ascents in pure alpine style in the north faces as hinted in the title. Intentionally we have chosen three different mountain ranges varied in its own characteristics, climbing styles etc. All in all we spent 99 long days travelling, waiting for various permits or suitable weather, and climbing at the end of the day. Funny enough, of all these activities, there were only 9 days devoted to real climbing.
The last part of our plan with Jan was the return to Talung in Kangchenjunga range. In 2004 we attempted, with Tomáš Rinn, the new line in NW pillar but we were forced to returne due to my frostbitten feet. The plan this year was scratched out due to low funds in our bank account upon arrival in Nepal. So our substitute choice was Kyashar with my hitherto score 1 to 1. It includes one failed attempt on the Eastern Pillar in 2001 with David Šťastný and then a new route from 2005 in the center of the wall together with Jan too. This year then meant a return to an unfinished job on Eastern Pillar.
On October 13 we set up a Base Camp at the foot of Kyashar. Ice conditions of the lower amphitheatre does not look very hopeful, but the upper part from the col, which was reached 5 years ago, looked better. On October 15 we entered the wall and succeded in a vertical ice curtain. Next follows traverse across the first snowfield bellow steep and rare ice streakes stretching in thin layers to the second snowfield. Next comes an exposed traverse all the way to the col. The bivvy there is quite comfortable with amazing view of a sunset on Makalu. On October 16 Jan complains about gradual pains in his both forearms. His tendons suffered a well developed inflammation that resulted in another retreat. We rappeled down 800m back to the tent and closed this year´s exploration of Asian mountains.
Nepal/ Central Himalay/Inku Valley/ Kyashar 6750m-new route Ramro Chaina on the edge 6550m, IS wall – M6+ WI 6+, 1900m, 5 days 105 hours alpine style, Marek Holeček - Jan Doudlebský, October 2005
Nepál/ Central Himalay/Inku Valley/ Kyashar 6750m first attempt 2001 - S pillar 60 hours alpine style, Marek Holeček – David Štastný, October 2001, second attempt 2008 - S pillar 34 hours alpine style, Marek Holeček – Jan Doudlebský, 15 -16 October 2008
Cheers Marek
